hike white mountain peak california

White Mountain Peak Hike (California)

In This Guide
  • White Mountain Peak Trail Maps
  • Turn by Turn Hike Directions & Video
  • The Spectacular Drive to White Mountain Peak Trailhead
  • See the Oldest Trees in the World While You’re Here
Distance15 miles (24.2 km)
Hike Time7-9 Hours (Total)
DifficultyHard
Total Ascent (?)3,360 feet (1024m)
Highest Elevation14,246 feet (4342m)
Fees & PermitsFree
Dog FriendlyLeashed
Park ContactInyo National Forest
Park Phone760-873-2400

The White Mountain Peak hike brings you to the third highest peak in California, only a few hundred feet lower than Mt Whitney, and the highest outside peak of the Sierra Nevada. The hike is tough, but doable, and meanders through the White Mountains Wilderness section of Inyo National Forest: a rugged a beautiful mountain desert, tucked into the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada. The summit of White Mountain Peak offers great 360 views from the Eastern Sierras to Nevada.

Hikers often call this the easiest 14,000+ (aka 14er) hike, but do not underestimate the hike to White Mountain Peak. You have to deal with some of the same challenges that you would in the high Sierras, including extreme weather and altitude sickness. It’s great altitude prep to hike Mt Whitney.

How to Get to White Mountain Peak Trailhead

First, don’t confuse the White Mountains Wilderness (California) with White Mountain National Forest (which is in New England). The White Mountains Wilderness is part of Inyo National Forest, which also encompasses Mt Whitney. Getting that wrong will add about 3000 miles to your drive.

The trailhead address is: White Mountain Rd, Bishop, CA, 93514, USA.

The Drive to White Mountain Peak

The drive to the trailhead is half the fun – the last 16 miles are on a dirt road called the Bristlecone Pine Forest Scenic Byway. It’s doable in a car, but you’ll enjoy it more in a high clearance vehicle. Beware of sharp stones, flats are common, and tow trucks are far away. It’s wise to stop at a gas station and pick up a can or two of fix-a-flat just in case.

The scenery along the way is jaw-dropping. Plan on 60-90 minutes (one-way) to tackle the dirt road. The best route into the area is on Rt 168 to White Mountain Road.

There are no facilities even remotely close to the trailhead, so make sure you fill your tank and stock up on supplies on Rt 395. The visitors center sometimes offers water for sale but does not have running water.

You don’t need a permit to hike White Mountain Peak or park at the trailhead (according to a call to the ranger office). I left my National Parks Pass on the dash, just in case.

In the winter the road is not plowed and could be gated. If in doubt, call the ranger station and see what the deal is. This hike is best attempted in the summer or early fall.

If you want a great overview of the area, including the ancient bristlecone pine groves and campground, check out this map (thanks to website friend Ben W.!).

White Mountain Area Map

white mountain peak drive
The first section of the drive into the park is paved until you get to Schulman Grove Visitor Center. There are a ton of overlooks as you drive up to the trailhead at 11680 feet.
white mountain peak drive
The White Mountains lie in between the Eastern Sierras and Death Valley, and offer great prominence and 360 views. Here the sunrise is illuminating the Sierras, which you look straight across at, not up to.
white mountain peak drive
Keep your eyes open for wildlife. I saw dozens of mule dear and even a wild horse. The horse was a first for me here.
white mountain peak drive
Eventually White Mountain Peak will come into view, and you only have a few miles to the trailhead.

Dealing With Marmots at the Trailhead

You might have heard about marmots eating through car cables and hoses at the trailhead. The bad news is that this is a real thing. The good news is that according to the rangers it hasn’t happened in a few years (let me know if you hear otherwise).

Evidently it occurs mainly in the spring, up until mid-July. The NPS recommends you wrap a tarp around the bottom of your car. I’ve also heard rangers say that marmots can chew through tarps.

I’ve never wrapped my car in a tarp and have been fine. And if you look at the cars at the Barcroft Research station, they are not wrapped. Usually the marmot damage is in the Mineral King area, Kings Canyon and Sequoia NP, and NOT on White Mountain. If you’re in doubt, call the ranger station and see what they recommend.

marmot proofed car
This is the recommended way to marmot-proof your car. Photo NPS

Camping At the Trailhead

white mountain peak hike tent
There’s some basic camping and fire pits to the right of the trailhead.

You can camp at the trailhead. It’s first-come, first-serve, and free. The area exposed, but there are some rocks and a gully you can shelter from the wind in. The campsite is primitive with a bathroom and some fire pits. Grab a campfire permit in Bishop or Lone Pine.

If you want something less primitive, you can try the Grandview campground which is on the road to White Mountain Peak, but pretty far away still.

Stopping to See the Ancient Bristlecone Pines

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest Hike

The Bristlecone Pine Forest Scenic Byway, which is the road to the trailhead, takes you past some Ancient Bristlecone Forest groves, the oldest living trees on earth. Some of the trees are up to 5000 years old, shaped and gnarled by thousands of years of wind and desert conditions.

Here’s how I’d recommend you plan your trip if you want to see the trees:

I generally do White Mountain Peak early, take a nap, and then do the hike at Schulman’s Grove. It’s a long day but I can’t get enough this area.

Gear for the Hike

Although the trail isn’t technical and you go by some settlement, this is definitely a backcountry hike. You are miles away from almost everything and you should prepare for that.

The climate on White Mountain Peak is that of a mountain desert. Winds can reach over 160mph, and there is no real cover to shelter in, as you are above the tree line for the entire hike. There can also be lightning if a storm passes through. If you see the weather deteriorating, just turn around. You can check the weather station at the summit for real-time conditions.

And it’s dry. In fact, the lowest recorded air moisture ever recorded on earth was here in the White Mountains. So bring more water than you think you need. I went through 4.5 liters, but brought 6 liters

Here’s the gear that I personally use, have tested, and recommend for this hike*.

Osprey Talon

Osprey Talon 33

My best lightweight pack for hikes between 3-10+ hours. I use mine with the 3L water bladder from Osprey.

Women’s Reviews

Men’s Reviews

Garmin Inreach Mini Beacon

Garmin InReach Mini

You can text, SOS, and get weather in the backcountry where your cell phone doesn’t work. Literally a life-saver.

Lowest Prices

My In-Depth Review

La Sportiva Spire

La Sportiva Spire GTX

Modern materials mean you get the protection of a traditional hiking boot (waterproof, etc.) with feel of a sneaker.

Women’s Reviews

Men’s Reviews

Black Diamond Trekking Poles

Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork Trekking Poles

If you’re not using poles yet, you should be. This model takes a beating, is light, and is super comfortable.

See The Reviews

Socks Sock Liners

2-Layer Sock System

I use a light inner toe sock and then a top-quality outer sock to prevent blisters.

Injinji Sock Liners

Darn Tough Socks

Probar

Nutritionally Dense Superfoods

Probars are great: no preservatives, vegan, low-GI, compact, and tasty. Put good fuel in your body.

See the Probar Flavors

If you’re hiking in the backcountry it makes sense to have a decent emergency kit and some basic gear to spend the night in a pinch.Full HikingGuy Gear List

* No company pays me to promote or push a product, all the gear you see here is gear I use and recommend. If you click an REI link and buy gear, I get a small commission that helps offset website expenses. There is no cost to you.

Also → Big Sale at REI On Now:

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White Mountain Peak Trail Maps

This guide follows the popular South Face route, which is a dirt / rock road, and not a pristine single-track. Don’t let this deter you, the hike is absolutely beautiful. Although it’s only miles to the Eastern Sierra, it feels like you’re hiking on Mars.

There’s also a 20 mile, 8000ft, Class 2 West Ridge route, which you shouldn’t even think about attempting unless you have serious mountaineering experience.

This trail also passes the highest research facility in North America, Barcroft Station, run by the University of California.

Click To View Map

White Mountain Peak Hike (California) Map Downloads

Download the Hike GPX File

View a Printable PDF Hike Map

Here’s what I use to navigate my hikes. I recommend a combination of paper and electronic options with backups.

Gaiagps

Gaia GPS

Gaia GPS is a planning and navigation tool that you can use on your phone, tablet, and the web. I use it on my phone when I need to interact with the map and know where my position is on it. I use it at home on the computer to plan routes. You can overlay maps such as public lands to find out free places to camp. It’s a powerful tool.

HikingGuy Discount on Gaia GPS

Fenix Nav

Garmin Fenix Watch

This thing does everything: maps, GPX tracks, compass, barometer, altitude, heart rate, blood oxygen, fitness tracking, sleep tracking, and the list goes on. I keep a GPX route on the watch so I can quickly glance down and make sure I’m in the right place.

Fenix Prices & Reviews

My In-Depth Review

Topo Map

Topo Maps & Guide Books

Don’t be caught out if your batteries die. Take a topo map with you on the trail. Some people also print my guides out for use on the hike.

I also highly recommend taking a map and compass navigation course. It’s a few hours, it’s fun, and it could save your life.

Map and Compass Navigation Basics Classes

Don’t just rely on a cell phone, especially if you are hiking in the backcountry.

white mountain peak 3d map
The trail makes its way up toward White Mountain with some gradual climbing. The last stretch to the summit goes straight up. The prominence from the summit is great, with views 7000 feet down into the valley below.
white mountain peak elevation
It’s only about 3600 feet of climbing up the extinct volcano of White Mountain, but the altitude will make it feel much harder. The hardest part of the hike is the last 2 miles or so, which go straight up to the summit. Save energy for the uphill sections on the way back.

White Mountain Peak Hike Directions

Video Directions

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Turn by Turn Hike Directions

Before you start, remember that you are at altitude, and altitude sickness (AMS) can be deadly. If you’re not familiar with how to handle AMS, read about it on my Mt Whitney hike post.

white mountain peak hike
There’s plenty of parking at the trailhead. You can also see the primitive bathroom.
white mountain peak hike trail
Start by hiking at the well-marked gate. The gate opens for traffic to the research station.
white mountain peak hike trail
The trail is easy to follow and climbs from the beginning. There really aren’t many side trails. Anything to the side that you see will likely be an animal run.
University of California Barcroft Facility
After about 2 miles, you’ll reach the University of California Barcroft Facility at 12,470 feet. Just follow the main trail through the camp. The camp is full of experiments, instruments, and facilities for the researchers. It’s all private property, so steer clear. There are no public bathrooms or water sources here.
white mountain peak hike
The trail to White Mountain Peak is marked well through the research facility. Keep your eyes open for marmots that try to eat food meant for the research livestock.
white mountain peak hike
At the end of the research facility there are some signs blocking the trail to traffic. Just go past the signs and keep hiking u the dirt road.
white mountain peak hike
The trail starts to climb again after the research facility.
white mountain peak hike
Shortly after that, you’ll reach Bancroft Observatory. After this the trail goes downhill for a stretch.
white mountain peak hike
After you pass the observatory, the trail is pretty level and you can get nice views of White Mountain Peak in the distance.
white mountain peak hike
Keep your eyes open for wildlife. I saw a ton of marmots up here, and also saw some coyotes and hawks looking to eat them.
white mountain peak hike
Eventually the trail slopes upward again and you start to climb. Avoid any smaller side trails.
white mountain peak hike
There’s a White Mountains Wilderness sign in the middle of nowhere, off to the left of the trail.
white mountain peak hike
As you approach the saddle, you’ll start to see the trail snake up to the summit in the distance.
white mountain peak hike
After the saddle there’s a steep downhill section. This will be painful on the way back, prepare yourself.
white mountain peak hike
The bighorn sheep blend in well the terrain. Keep your eyes open, there are two herds that roam these parts.
white mountain peak hike
Okay, here’s the start of the business end of the hike. After the downhill, you start the last uphill stretch to the summit.
white mountain peak hike
It’s still a dirt road, and it meanders up some switchbacks as you hike toward the summit.
white mountain peak hike
As the trail winds around the east side of the mountain, you’ll be able to get great views of the north into Nevada.
white mountain peak hike
It’s steep and you’re at altitude, so take your time and take plenty of breaks. If you have acute AMS symptoms, turn around and head back down.
white mountain peak hike
As you get closer to the summit, the trail heads north of the summit. Avoid any of the shortcuts to the summit and leave no trace.
white mountain peak hike
Finally the trail twists back south and you hike to the summit. Notice how high you are compared to the Eastern Sierra peaks in the background
white mountain peak hike
Here you are, the summit! The stone shelter is there if you need to take refuge from the weather. I actually had great cell reception here, and was able to video call my wife. Who knew?
white mountain peak hike
Sign the trail register. There’s also some basic supplies in there in case you’re in bad shape.
white mountain peak hike
The views are incredible. To the west, you’ll be able to look straight across to the Sierras.
white mountain peak hike
To the east, you have Nevada and the peaks of Death Valley.

From here, just head back the way you came and that’s the hike!

Did something change on this hike? If so, please contact me and let me know. I'll update the guide.